Fly and Bethel communities near the Natchez Trace Parkway

If you find yourself traveling on the Natchez Trace Parkway about an hour or so south of the northern terminus of the Trace or if you live in the Nashville area and are wanting to get out on some back roads you are in luck.

The parkway from milepost 425 (Leiper's Fork area) south to milepost 391 (intersection with US 412) follows a ridge where the altitude approaches 1100'. 'Kaintucks' that used to walk the Old Natchez Road home from Natchez, MS called this area the 'Devil's Backbone'. To the east of this ridge lies some of the most beautiful Tennessee valleys that you will ever see. There are some overlooks along the Trace where you can view the valleys: Water Valley Overlook, Baker Bluff Overlook and Jackson Falls.

To access these valleys you can exit the Trace at either the Leiper's Fork exit or the Fly exit which I took a few days ago. I exited the Trace at  milepost 416 onto Tennessee Highway 7 and headed south (towards Columbia). A mile or so down the hill takes you into the Fly community. On the left is Fly's General Store. Proprietor is B. Wilson Fly who has been enjoying the backroads of this area for decades. He loves to show off a shoebox full of pictures that he has taken over the years. And, he has a few recommended driving or biking routes that will take you back in time through the valleys and hollers of this breathtaking country.

If you are just the slightest bit hungry you can fill your belly with a bona-fide hand sliced bologna sandwich. The hardwood floored store is filled with snack items and general supplies. In the mornings the parking lot is usually overflowing with pickup trucks as folks stop by to get a bite to eat and to visit with friends on the front porch. The general store is real popular with cyclists (bicycles and motorcycles) who come off the Trace in search of nourishment.

Fly's General Store
5661 Leipers Creek Road
Santa Fe, TN 38482
931-682-2356

From Fly, there are two different directions you can take to view valley back roads. You can go north on Leiper's Creek Road towards Bethel and Leiper's Fork or you can go south on Leiper's Creek Road towards Water Valley. Leiper's Creek Road parallels the Natchez Trace Parkway but it is located in the valley as opposed to up on the ridge.

I have been south before to the Water Valley area but then I got lost. Next time I go that way I'll take Mr. Fly's map which shows you how to navigate the back roads all the way across the Duck River and eventually to US 412 between Columbia and Hohenwald. The Water Valley Overlook stop on the Natchez Trace Parkway mentioned above is a panoramic view of the small community of Water Valley and the surrounding farms.

On this trip I headed north on Leiper's Creek Road towards the Bethel community. Several times before I had passed by The Quilting Frame. This time I stopped and met Sandra Adkinson owns the store. Sandra  carries all types of fabric and quilting supplies.

In the center of the big yellow building is a Gammill Long Arm Quilting Machine and a computerized Statler Stitcher Quilting Machine.

The Quilting Frame is open Monday-Wednesday from 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m., Friday from 9:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. and Saturday from 9:00 a.m. - noon. They are closed on Thursday and Sunday.

The Quilting Frame
6000 Leipers Creek Road
Santa Fe, TN 38482
(931) 682-3746

Another mile or so north on Leiper's Creek Road brought me to Nett's Grocery. The old store is close to the road - look for the orange and blue "76" gasoline sign. Nett's Grocery gets its name from owner Annette Dotson - everybody calls her Nett.

Nett's, like Fly's General Store, is another local gathering place. Grocery shelves are located at the front of the store. Beyond the grocery shelves is the dining area. And, at the back of the store is a small stage for karaoke music on Thursday night (6:00 to 8:00) and live, local music on Saturday night (6:00 to 8:00).

The 'deli' at Nett's is typical of that southern genre of restaurants referred to as "Meat & Threes" where you select one meat and three vegetables (or just two veggies for a lesser price). And, like many meat and threes, one of the meats on Friday is catfish. I ordered catfish, fries and coleslaw. Of course, hush puppies automatically came with the catfish. All were worth a return trip (actually I have eaten here three or four times).

Nett's is open on Monday from 5:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. (breakfast is served in the morning), Tuesday and Wednesday from 5:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. (7:00 p.m. in the winter), Thursday and Friday from 5:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., Saturday from 6:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. and on Sunday the store is open from 8:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and the deli is open for lunch from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.

Nett's Grocery
Skelley Road (just off of Leipers Creek Road)
Santa Fe, TN 38482
(931) 682-2315

From Nett's I headed on north on Leiper's Creek Road past several horse farms and eventually to the small village of Leiper's Fork. Here you can hop back on the Natchez Trace Parkway at the intersection with Tennessee Highway 46 at milepost 428.